Monday, November 29, 2010

End of Week 16 - Angry Volcanoes and the Paso de Cortés

We woke up before sunrise on Sunday morning to catch a bus to Cholula. We were headed to the Paso de Cortés, the route between the two volcanoes that separate Puebla from Mexico City, Iztaccíhuatl y Popocatépetl. Popo, for short, is the taller one - and the active one - spewing smoke and gas constantly. Puebla feels a lot more tranquil at 6:45 am on a Sunday morning; there was no traffic, no car exhaust, and the traveling natural gas sellers and their loudspeakers weren't yet prowling the streets.


A church in Cholula.
We were meeting Cole and Jason, the Cholula gang, at 8 am in the Cholula zocalo. We caught one bus at the corner near our house to go to the bus terminal where we caught a second bus direct from Puebla to Cholula. To our surprise, the direct bus to Cholula returned directly in front of our house, which means we could have slept an extra half an hour and saved 10 pesos had we just waited for the Cholula bus. This was only a minor defeat and we were on our way.


When we arrived in the zocalo in Cholula (at 7:50 am), we learned that there was a marathon that day. Cole and Jason weren't as punctual, and had us scared that we were in the wrong Cholula (there are two), or the wrong zocalo (there are three; Puebla, Cholula 1, and Cholula 2). But we did eventually find each other, right before discovering that the streets in Cholula were closed due to the marathon, and our combi (mini van bus) that was taking us part of the way up the mountain was not running. This was a bit more of a defeat. The same thing happened to us in San Miguel de Allende, when a marathon had closed the highway to our hot spring.  But, like in San Miguel, there was another way, and after much prying of the locals, we found our combi on the other side of the city, working the leg of the route beyond the marathon.


We finally reached San Nicolas, the end of the combi route, at about 10:30 am. And again, to our suprise, the bus (this next bus was really just someone's van) was not waiting, as it usually does, in the town square. Another man was also waiting for the bus to take him from San Nicolas to the other side of the pass in Mexico State. He told us that he had been waiting for two days...



Our following of dogs.
Feeling much more defeated, and since there really wasn't much else to do in San Nicolas - other than watch Jason feed the mangy dogs - we decided to wait for the "bus". And at 11:45, our patience and lack of options finally paid off. The bus driver, who lived a few houses from teh squre, finally woke up, started his van and pulled up to the square. An hour later we were in the national park at the Paso de Cortés.






In 1519 Hernán Cortés, the Spanish Conquistador, and his men massacred an indigenous town in Cholula and traveled through this pass on their way to the valley of Mexico in order to fight the Aztec emperor Moctezuma. On the other side of the pass they found the bustling island city of Tenochtitlán, today's Mexico City, connected to the mainland by several large causeways. It was a city larger and more modern than any European city at the time.







Popo from the trail.

Pine forests.
The same pass today is a national park. The mountains are covered in deep pine forests and separated by vast alpine meadows. The start of the trail was along a road carved into the meadow, and the road bed was sand-like volcanic ash. Along the side of the road we could see different layers of soil, ash, pumice, and clay, representing different volcanic eruptions. Although it was cloaked in clouds and we couldn't see much of it, we knew that Popo was nearby, waiting to burst again.


We hiked to a nearby waterfall; it was the clearest, cleanest, coldest water I've seen in Mexico, too high to be polluted by sewers and factories. In the forest we saw several interesting birds, including a red-phase Mountain Pygmy Owl, three Seller’s Jays, a Brown Creeper, a Hairy Woodpecker, Yellow-eyed Juncos, Mexican Chickadees and a Western Bluebird.

Luckily, transportation on our return trip home was punctual, although a little bit crowded. And, most importantly, Popo didn't get angry and we weren't added to a new layer of ash along the road.












The waterfall.

Monday, November 22, 2010

End of Week 15 - What's Going On?

Over the last few weeks I have often found myself chuckling within and wondering "What the hell's going on?" We are less than two weeks into our actual service as volunteers, yet so far from Queretaro and the swearing-in ceremony that made us official Peace Corps volunteers.

Puebla is a huge city, one with a large historic center and massive sprawling suburbs. It is surrounded volcanoes, and is famous for its food; chocolate mole (mole poblano), ant roe, grasshoppers, and caterpillars. We live with a new host family in Puebla, but it's no typical Mexican family. They have a nice suburban house. One son went to NYU and studied fine arts, another went to a university in San Antonio on a Fulbright scholarship, and another was the starting quarterback for UDLAP, a university in Puebla that just won the national championship in Futbol Americano.


Puebla government building.

Cathedral on the zocalo.

At work I have tried to let everyone know that I enjoy getting out of the office, going on field trips or whatever the option is. One day last week I was invited to go to a new city park inauguration and took the opportunity gladly. I wasn't sure what to expect and didn't really know why we were going to the inauguration. When we arrived, the Mexican military was guarding the park's perimeter, automatic machine guns ready. The state's governor was arriving by helicopter, and for some reason we were sitting on the stage with the most prominent Poblano officials, everyone dressed in an expensive suit and tie except for me (I was wearing a dirty fleece jacket, a bright orange backpack, and my Buffalo tourist baseball hat). Before the governor arrived, my co-worker from the office decided he needed to take some photos of the park, so we left the stage and commenced inspections of every bathroom in the park, taking photos of both men's and women's restrooms. We never went back to the stage and I missed the inauguration. Why did we need photos of the bathrooms? Why was I there at all? I don't really know yet.

Later that week we had a theft at the office. Someone's cell phone was taken. The entire 40-person office was told to go to the central courtyard and stay there while they did a search of everyone’s workspace. For me it was like crossing the border into Canada; I know I wasn't doing anything wrong but I couldn't help feeling guilty anyways. I kept hoping that they wouldn't find the cell phone in my desk, hoping that the thief wouldn't stash it in my backpack. And when they finally got around to searching my work area, there it was, in the plant pot next to my desk. Great, now I'm the thief from the US!

We had a meeting today at the office; everyone from the planning team was there. We discussed the cell phone incident - I'm pretty sure they don't think it was me - and a few other things. Most of the discussion was directed to the group and away from me, but that changed suddenly; the boss was looking at me and talking. I kept looking back to make sure he knew I was paying attention. I realized everyone else was looking at me too. Great, I hate being the center of attention, especially when I don't understand anything being said. He stopped talking and everyone started laughing. Oh, it must have been a joke! Just smile and laugh, they will all think you get it. Wait, they stopped laughing and they're still looking at me... It wasn't a joke it was a question! Oh please change the subject. Just shrug and nod your head in agreement. You can hold out longer than they can!.... This happens pretty regularly and I don't always figure out what happened later.

It’s been interesting here. My Spanish is considered mid-advanced, but there are some people that just seem to be speaking an entirely different language than Spanish. Ours is definitely a different cultural immersion experience than the new volunteer without much Spanish who is living in a community of 24 people on top of a remote mountain in the campo. If she had access to the internet, or electricity, she would probably be writing a similar story, but would likely be using stronger four-letter words than "hell".


Adendum
Mexico - what's with the overuse of "ecologico" in the naming of everything? Parks can be ecological parks, but city parks that are just soccer fields are not ecological. Periferico Ecologico (ecological highway) ...? Parque Industrial Ecologico (ecological industrial park)....really?

It continues....
So last Friday I went to to grab something to eat for lunch. When I returned, everyone was gone except for Alicia, the co-worker that I go to small communities with. She was locking the office and leaving in a hurry. When she saw me she seemed startled and asked me a question (in Spanish), that was something like this: I thought you went with Francisco (my boss) to a community? I told her "no, I'm working in the office today." I didn't know anyone was going to a community visit and I was a little disappointed that Francisco didn't bring me with him. She repeated the question and I responded with the same, "no, I am staying here." So she left...

Ana came back from lunch soon after, and to her surprise, I was still in the office. She asked why I hadn't gone with Alicia to the community. Diego, Ana's boss, returned and asked me the same. Then Francisco returned and asked me too. Apparently, Alicia had been waiting for me to return from lunch to take me to a dinner in a small community south of the city. I really did want to go. I found out that Alicia, who had been waiting for me to return from lunch, had actually asked me if I was ready to go with her to the community. And I had responded "no, I am staying here." I told her later that if I ever say anything stupid, just shake me!

And Again...
We were preparing for our trip to Oaxaca and the Arqi (my boss' nickname, short for Arquitecto, or Architect) asked me if Ana wanted to go with us. I asked Ana and she said no.

I told the Arqi that "Ana no va a ir", which means Ana is not going to go.

The Arqi responded "no ayer, mañana", which means not yesterday, tomorrow. He thought I was saying "ayer" instead of "a ir".

I repeated myself "no, Ana no va a ir."

So did he - "no ayer, mañana." Then, in broken English, "Ayer mean yesterday, mañana tomorrow." Of course I knew that and I knew what he was saying and why he was confused. But, even in Spanish, he couldn't understand me.

I smiled, and so did he. I had to let this one go. Since they don't think I speak Spanish, they can't understand me when I am speaking just fine. It is what it is I guess.

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Videos from Peace Corps in Mexico

September 2010:
El Castillo (fireworks from the Bicentenario) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBRnD2YtHWY
Los Concheros (dancers from the Bicentenario) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbFvaj6MPdo

November 2010:
Monarchs in Parque Nacional El Cimatario - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHA78wpv3Og
More Monarchs in Parque Nacional El Cimatario - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vg354OgJrVs
The insect bush in Parque Nacional El Cimatario - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyJAVmT3Z6s

December 2010:
Jelly Fish at La Mancha - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahdpdFykyEo

March 2011:
Carnival in Huejotzingo - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqG9lnKBPz8

June 2011:
Market in Puebla - http://www.youtube.com/user/anahernandezbalzac?ob=5

November 2011 - San Blas Nayarit
http://youtu.be/Vyb_15klcC4
http://youtu.be/45-BLKgUnsU
http://youtu.be/p3aotEO9zRo
http://youtu.be/y9DPuRx9pCU
http://youtu.be/6Wh_sOjk-QQ
http://youtu.be/SDfMDP4PFyA
http://youtu.be/wTgJquvb5Os
http://youtu.be/c5U9_iBi-BU
http://youtu.be/oyxk5C29Pnc
http://youtu.be/KfuZw9bEEPE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MlYvtgLFs0k



End of Week 13 - Thousands of Monarchs! Queretaro


The summit.
It was early November; the sun was shining, the sky was a cloudless deep blue, and the fall breeze rustled the fallen leaves and desert scrub on the trails in Parque Nacional El Cimatrio. This was our fourth attempt to hike to the top the extinct volcano in the park. On our first attempt, the gatekeeper told us that we needed to obtain a pass and gave us vague directions for who to call. On the second attempt, without having obtained a pass, we tried to evade the gatekeeper and enter the park undetected, but failed to go unnoticed. With clearer instructions on obtaining an entrance pass, we returned a third time with the required forms and were allowed to enter and use the trails. But without trail maps we underestimated the time it would take to reach the top and had to leave the park to return later. With a little help from Google Earth we discovered a shortcut via a cow trail and when we returned to the park for the fourth time on our last weekend in Queretaro, we finally summitted the mountain.


View from  the top.

From the top we could see all of Queretaro, from the pyramid in El Pueblito to the south, to the historic center of Queretaro, and across the expansive suburbs sprawling in all directions towards the mountains in the distance. The wind whistled and chimed as it blew through the radio and microwave towers above us.

On the way up the mountain, the vegetation changed from Eucalyptus plantation, to pine forest, then low thorny plants and acacia brush, and finally to cactus and yucca forests at the top. Each type of vegetation brought with it different types of wildlife.



A Great Horned Owl in a zoo-like cage at the park.
The bird-life in the park was spectacular. The trees near the bottom were crawling with various chirping warblers, tanagers, finches and sparrows. Bright red Vermilion Flycatchers, among numerous other species of flycatchers, were feeding on flying insects. Woodpeckers, like the Golden-fronted and Ladder-backed and Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers, hammered away at tree trunks. Iridescent green and blue Broad-billed Hummingbirds buzzed and chirped as they flew between flowers. Jet black Phainopeplas watched anxiously from bushes at the edge of the pond, as egrets, herons, and sandpipers fed along its shores. Curve-billed Thrashers sat atop cactus eating the bright red fruits. Northern Mockingbirds sang away, often mimicking other birds in the park. A Greater Roadrunner dashed into the bushes as soon as it saw us on the trail in front of it.

The park is also home to huge amounts of insect life. A single flowering bush in one of the high montane meadows had hundreds of small, colorful, Skipper-like butterflies, several types of brightly colored crickets, a mating pair of Walking Sticks, and was swarming with bees. We saw a small number of various lizards and turtles basking in the sunlight. Many mammals inhabit the park, like fox or even mountain lion, although they are elusive and rarely seen.

Insects on the insect bush. (Click the image to enlarge)

A single Monarch.
After summiting the mountain, we made our way back down towards the entrance. A single Monarch Butterfly fluttered over head into a nearby tree. I ran after it, hoping to get a photo in the bright afternoon sunlight. I found it stationary, clinging to a branch on a short pine tree, shaded by the taller Eucalyptus trees surrounding it. As I used my camera to zoom in for the perfect shot, I realized it was not alone; it had landed on the outside of a cluster of hundreds of other Monarchs and was only one in a large chain! I looked around and saw other clusters of Monarchs, one after the other, each one larger than the last. The beautiful deep, contrasting orange and black color of their wings glowed against the green foliage and blue sky. The clusters would sit silent and still for a while, then would burst into commotion, vibrating as each butterfly beat its wings until calming again, becoming motionless and hidden once again. Suddenly, a strong gust of wind came blowing through the trees, and all at once hundreds of thousands of Monarchs took flight, criss-crossing through the trees, seemingly blanketing the sky. The butterflies slowly came to rest again in a new cluster somewhere else in order to keep warm together.

Monarchs at Parque Nacional El Cimatario - November 2010. (Click the image to enlarge)

The Monarch migration and lifecycle is fascinating. The butterflies that spend winters in Mexico start flying north in early spring and breed in the southern US. It takes two or three more generations to reach the northeastern US and Canada. Each generation breeds, lays eggs, and dies within a span of two months. The eggs hatch within a week of being laid. The hatched caterpillars feed on milkweed, grow fat, and begin their metamorphosis as they change into a chrysalis two weeks after hatching. Less than two weeks later a full-grown Monarch Butterfly emerges from the chrysalis and mates within a week, laying its own eggs then dying. In early fall, the final generation that hatches in the northern-most parts of their range flies all the way back to Mexico where it’s great, great grandparents started the journey six months earlier, and lives up to seven months overwintering in Mexico before heading north to start the life-cycle anew come spring.



The cold weather that day was a sign of the winter to come. It brought with it flocks of colorful migrating birds from the north in search of food and shelter. It set each flowering plant abuzz with life, as sources of nectar and pollen were few and far between. And it blew in millions of Monarchs Butterflies, exhausted from their 3,000 mile journey from places as far north as my butterfly garden in Buffalo, NY, gathering to stay warm, to this little known and small patch of forest in central Mexico.

Videos:
Insect Bush - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyJAVmT3Z6s
Thousand of Monarchs flying - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHA78wpv3Og
More Monarchs - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vg354OgJrVs

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

More Week 12 - Bicycle Kicks and Soccer Riots, Queretaro

On Saturday, October 30th, 2010, the Gallos Blancos (White Cocks... or less comically, the White Roosters) from Queretaro took on the Pumas from Mexico City in a soccer match (or futbol, in Spanish) in Estadio Corregidora, the hometown stadium in Queretaro, a large stadium that seats 35,000 fans.

The Pumas are one of the best teams in the country. The Gallos, in contrast, are not; like my hometown Buffalo sports teams, the Gallos seem to be perpetual losers, and like Buffalo, the fans never give up hope and still watch the games. And so the stadium was filled to capacity on the evening of the game. Fans, myself included, waited in long and confusing ticket lines before waiting in an even longer line to enter the stadium. In fact, there was only one entrance line for all 35,000 fans, and the gates opened ten minutes before the game started, making many fans, like myself, late. We joked that it would only take one Peace Corps Volunteer with a free hour to  solve this problem - i.e. open a second gate.... a little earlier - but, if everything went more smoothly in Mexico there would be less fun!

As my friends and I blindly stumbled our way to our "seats", trying to read our ticket stubs for some directional clues, asking the attendants for help, we landed in the middle of the Gallos' "porra", the section of diehard fans that travel from city to city to cheer them on, the equivalent of "the dog pound" from the Cleveland Browns. Wearing the hometown blue and black colors, they were singing the Gallos theme song in unison, chanting and waving to the beat of drums, never stopping the entire game; we must have gone the wrong way in the stadium tunnels to end up sitting where we did, in the middle of all of all that drunken excitement.

From the outside, the stadium seemed like any stadium in the US. But inside there were several interesting differences. Most seats were actually just concrete slabs. The game clock didn't work, ever. Each section of seats was fenced in; tall chain-linked fences, topped with barbed wire. The entire playing field was surrounded by a deep concrete moat, again topped with barbed wire. The stadium was designed for riots, and there were nearly as many fully geared riot police as fans. Every time the game got exciting, the riot police pulled out their clubs and started palming them, anxiously waiting for the real fun to start. I wasn’t sure what to be more afraid of; the trigger happy cops, the drunken fans, or the prospect of being crushed against a barbed wire fence by a massive and sudden crowd surge if the Gallos lost.

This soccer game had something many soccer games do not; scoring. The first goal came early in the game, as the Gallos took an early lead. I missed this goal as we were finding our seats. The second goal came in the last minute of regulation time, as the Gallos were down two men to red cards and the Pumas tied it up. I missed this goal too, as I was nervously watching the riot police as they started moving in formation behind us. Thankfully, for our fun and safety, the Gallos scored a miraculous goal with less than 10 seconds left in penalty time with an amazing bicycle kick (a backwards, over the head kick) in front of the net. And I actually saw this one!

This dramatic end, of course, sent the Pumas' porra into an outrage. Like all soccer games in Mexico, the visiting team's porra is confined to a small section of seats, fenced off with barbed wire, at the far end of the stadium. And, to set the mood, large quantities of beer are sold to the visiting porra. As the game ended, the Pumas’ porra quickly broke a hole in their fence and charged out into the stands in an angry, drunken wave. The riot police were waiting and charged back, clubs and shields ready, and the Puma wave retreated back to their fenced-in enclosure. But the fight wasn't over; the visiting porra fought back from the fence, throwing punches and beer at the police. This lasted for several minutes, and we left the stadium before it was all over.

It was a good old fashioned soccer game - bicycle kicks, soccer riots and all.


The goals - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QL9YioRlIo
The end of the riot - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzPnO8Ssb7g